Morocco - Ourika Valley Hike

After a day visiting sites within Marrakesh, we were happy to spend a day out of the city and hiking in the Ourika Valley - a nature preserve in the High Atlas Mountains. Our guide, Ftah, picked us up from a parking area near our riad and we set off. It was a two to three hour drive during which we had a chance to learn more about the local culture. Children from ages six through eleven years old go to primary school either in the mornings or afternoons. After that, they attend a full-day middle school and high school after that. Often one high school serves many towns.

We saw very few cars as we drove, and most of those were other vans or cars taking tourists. Most people in the small, mountain villages were Berbers who practiced agriculture and traveled by donkey, foot or local bus. The roads are very windy and can be snowy so there are not many motorbikes.

As a whole, about 65% of Moroccans are Berbers, with the rest being Arab and a smaller percentage of French or other foreigners. The national language is Arabic, though most speak Berber as well. We found everyone in the hospitality industry (riads, guides, etc) spoke Arabic, Berber, English, French, Spanish and sometimes German or Italian. Humbling!

The areas we passed through predominantly grew olives (both for table consumption and olive oil) and palm dates. They also plant wheat. This particular year has been particularly dry, with very little snowfall. The fields have been plowed and planted but everyone is waiting for rain. If it doesn’t come soon, a drought is likely as this arid area depends on the snow pack to provide water for drinking and agriculture.

The local Berber houses are made of earth. They mix clay, hay, water and manure together to form bricks, which takes 1-2 weeks to dry. They then use these bricks to build thick walls for well-insulated houses that keep cool in summer and warm in the winter. Nonetheless, most were outfitted with satellite dishes on the roofs for television (and internet?) and many houses of remote homesteads had solar panels on the roofs! The Moroccan government even provides subsidies to encourage solar even in the small villages. The juxtaposition of such modern technology alongside the earthen walls was remarkable.

After having passed through rural, mountainous roads on the way to the verdant Ourika Valley, we were amazed to arrive at row after row of river-side restaurants and market stalls of trinkets for tourists. Granted, this was the low season, but it seemed impossible for there to be a demand for so many restaurants! We learned Ourika Valley is a popular weekend destination for Moroccans to escape the summer heat of the lower areas and picnicking along the river is common, not to mention eating at tables basically in the river!

We started off with our hike, led by a local guide who is part of his town’s cooperative. It did, indeed, start among the market stalls of local crafts for sale, but we didn’t feel overly pressed upon to purchase. We quickly ascended to the first of the waterfalls alongside several groups of tourists and thought it funny there was a waterfall-side cafe where you could have a fresh orange juice or coffee.

Happily, our guide led us further up to the next cafe and then on to the upper waterfalls. The path here was more rugged and steep so we left the gaggle of tourists behind and had the trail nearly to ourselves. We continued on higher and higher and Dave asked to climb to the source of the waterfall and stream. This was the diciest part of the hike. The standard way was no longer allowed and the alternate route included using a dead tree leaning against a rock you have to side-step along to get up. Our “sportif” boys (guide’s words) had no problem, though we kept a good hand on the younger two. Just before the spring that feeds the stream, we found a small patch of snow.

Unfortunately, monkeys that sometimes frequent the area were not to be found that day. We saw many walnut trees that the locals harvest, along with afgan nuts and apple trees. In all, it was a lovely three and a half hour hike and was one of the highlights of our trip. We like getting out and doing, not just seeing or shopping, and found it quite memorable. After our return, we enjoyed omelettes and tagine alongside the river and were serenaded by local Berber musicians. By the time we returned to Marrakesh, we were all ready for a good nights sleep!